The Design Duo Upcycling Fashion and Tradition

Words by Alli Patton

Idyllic snapshots of pastoral life, an endless dance between lovers, children forever at play—woven together in cobalt and cream, the toile de Jouy tells a story. So too does the fabric of Tessa Fay. The sustainable clothing brand, stitched with family and tradition, unfolds a tale of love, learning, and the eternal bond between a granddaughter and her grandmother.

When Tessa Fay was founded in 2020, it was during a time of uncertainty. Tessa Thompson, a young fashion merchandising student, found herself completing her degree online with an internship in New York City on the back burner due to the COVID-19 pandemic. “I was at a loss for what to do with my next chapter in Athens, Georgia, where fashion opportunities were slim,” she explains. 

Her grandmother, Fay—affectionately known as Gammie—however, had been trying to teach Tessa how to sew since she was little. “I finally took her up on it,” she says. Little did they know, these lessons would go much further than a simple backstitch here and serger seam there. Where a few thrift store visits and salvaged fabrics would mark the beginnings of Tessa Fay, Tessa Fay would ultimately kickstart a beautiful journey for the grandmother-granddaughter duo. 

In the beginning, the pair turned to what was immediately at hand, repurposing vintage textiles, ornate drapery, and other heirloom-quality materials that could be sourced in and around their native Georgia. “There is not a huge fashion scene, so there aren’t many fashion fabric stores,” Tessa explains. “There are, however, a few interior fabric outlets scattered through the South, as it used to be a huge furniture manufacturing hub.” 

They began upcycling the medium-weight fabric of the curtains and upholstery they found to bring their design ideas to life. In this way, they were able to challenge the modern fast fashion industry, reducing waste and creating made-to-order clothing with a quality and care uncommon in today’s market. Soon, from Gammie’s back porch-turned-design studio, spilled a parade of playfully feminine babydoll and puff-style tops and dresses in soft pastels, intricate jacquards, and charming toiles. 

In a short amount of time, Tessa Fay has found the sweet spot between classic and trendy, producing looks that are just as enduring as they are in vogue. It’s a style that came quickly and naturally to the duo, attributed to the combined tastes and shared lessons between grandmother and granddaughter. Tessa explains, “I was never technically trained in design before [Gammie] taught me, so I’m quite literally using the same techniques that she used making dresses for herself her whole life that her mother taught her. There are generations of knowledge and tradition sewn into every single stitch we’ve cut and sewn from scratch.”

And just as Gammie’s dressmaking knowledge has been passed down to Tessa, the same is meant for a Tessa Fay item. “We prioritize creating classic silhouettes because the idea is that the person who wears it will continue to for years and maybe even pass it down to their grandchild, like we’ve been so lucky to do with pieces Gammie has saved.”

The most treasured part of this endeavor, however, hasn’t been the clothing. It’s been the time the two have been able to spend together and the shared dream they’ve strived arm-in-arm to achieve. “Of course, the garment construction and care insight will always stick with me,” Tessa says, “but the bond we’ve strengthened through the millions of stories we’ve shared has deepened my admiration for the importance of family and tradition.” 

These early days of Tessa Fay will be something Tessa holds onto as she relocates the company to Nashville, Tennessee, with Gammie remaining in Georgia. It’s a move Tessa describes as “bittersweet,” adding, “As far as we’re concerned, our first back porch studio at Gammie’s will forever be the home of Tessa Fay.”

While Tessa has currently taken over the full design and production process, the young designer explains that Gammie’s guidance isn’t far behind. “She still is and will always be a part of it, as she still sources fabric and answers my crisis FaceTime calls when I need technical advice. But let’s just say I’m doing a lot more hand-sewing these days!”  

Not only is Tessa Fay putting down roots in a new place, but it is also branching out into ready-to-wear pieces, as well as an upcoming bridal line. However, there are some things that will never change: the brand’s commitment to sustainability; its dedication to crafting timeless, high-quality garments; and Tessa’s devotion to that which can’t be found on a rack or bought in a store—family, tradition, and a grandmother’s example.